January Wrap-Up

~ January 25, 2012

This winter I have decided to acquire more tropical plants for indoors than usual. Study after study has proven that the addition of green, living plants produce oxygen, clean the indoor atmosphere of airborne toxins and add significantly to the humidity of our incredibly dry Canadian homes during the winter months. Our average home has about 12 to 15% humidity mid winter. The Sahara desert averages about 25%.

The kitchen table will always have a flowering plant on it. The lowly indoor chrysanthemum is a favourite with NASA as a clean air plant.
Flowering plants also lift the spirits and brighten an otherwise dull room when our days are short.

I start my impatiens seeds the first week of February: this launches me nicely into the new ‘seed sowing season’.

Outdoors, wet snow needs to be brushed off of mature evergreens, especially the upright varieties like cedar and junipers, to avoid permanent damage.

Birds need feeding especially during times of heavy snow fall.

Ambitious gardeners will prune their apple trees in winter – just like the professionals do.

‘Garden with your head’. Take the time to read all that you can get your hands on about gardening as you develop your strategy for the best garden season ever this coming spring.

And finally, pray for a deep frost. This minimizes the insect problems that you will have to deal with this coming season. This is cold comfort when it is -25oC I know, but hey, I’ll trade it for the dreaded Japanese beetle.

Feeding Feathered Friends

~ January 18, 2012

As I peer out the window of our kitchen this time of year I am grateful for the birds that visit the seed heads of the ornamental grasses that I let stand over the winter. I am so glad that I resisted the temptation to cut them down in the autumn.

The ‘winter garden’ is more interesting than ever; I took more time to consider the appearance of my garden in the ‘off season’ when planting this past year. The evergreens and Blue Holly look so much more interesting than a flat yard of snow. And the bright red crabapples that remain on my Malus ‘Red Jade’ look fantastic. Soon the birds will find these appealing too.

This is the perfect time to attract song sparrows, chickadees and overwintering Blue Jays and Cardinals with a ‘song bird seed mix’. Or just use straight black oil sunflower seeds. To prevent the mess associated with sunflowers use the hulled variety – more expensive but all ‘meat’ and no waste or mess to clean up.

Winter feeding birds need the carbohydrates contained in suet. I always hang several out for the winter. That way, if I don’t replace one of them after it is finished the birds always have another to feed on.

As for the myth that feeding the birds creates a dependency on your feeding station that is not healthy for them – hogwash. If they are disappointed by the selection of seed in your yard they go hunting for available seed in the wild. In most cases, they have the option to go next door or down the street to the home of another generous gardener come bird feeder.

Orchids Made Easy

~ January 12, 2012

In spite of their new level of popularity, home grown orchids are still misunderstood. Chief among these ‘misunderstandings’ is that orchids are hard to grow. This is not necessarily true.

The orchid family is the largest in the plant world. Most people who are just starting out with orchids are looking for a long-flowering, easy to care for plant with exotic flowers and a general habit of reblooming without much fuss.

There are orchids that are so easy to care for that I put them in the same category as African violets: only orchids are easier.
If you enjoy ignoring your indoor plants, allowing them to go dry for long periods of time, I have the answer for you. And many of your friends are going to think that your brown thumb morphed over the New Year into the greenest of green!

I will classify the popular orchids according to the amount of care that they require and their desired location in your home:

Phalaenopsis

This is the most popular of orchids for the home gardener. They are epiphytic, which means that they grow in trees and rocks in the tropics. When the bloom fades, cut the stems below the last flower, just above a node (where the leaf meets the stem). In most cases a new stem will develop and it will re-flower.
Location: warm home, low light conditions. If space is limited, look for a miniature Phalaenopsis.

Light: no direct sun. Enjoys a north facing (low light) window but prefers an east facing one.

Temperature: low of 18°C and high of 29°C.

Humidity: stand in a tray of pebbles among a group of like-minded plants. Mist leaves with tepid water often including the roots that are exposed.

ReBlooming: 3 weeks of cooler (18 °C) temperatures will ‘kick start’ this orchid into reblooming.


Paphiopedilum

These are ‘ground dwellers’ (terrestrial) orchids that grow naturally in tropical and subtropical Asia. They are easily identifiable by their pouch-like lip, much like our native ‘Lady Slipper’ orchids. This is a spectacular species with gorgeous single blooms born on a stem ranging in colour from white, green, brown, claret, red, yellow and pink.

Location: defused light to direct sunshine. Versatile.

Temperature: low of 13°C this time of year to 24°C in summer. Generally they like it cool. Green-leaved hybrids are the toughest of them all vs. varieties with mottled leaves.

Special needs: humidity using a pebble tray increases humidity. Misting can cause mould.


Cambria

Cambria orchids provide a spray of bloom on a single stem that is quite impressive.

Location: diffused light, north or west facing window is ideal most of the year. North is favoured during the intense summer time.

Temperature: low of 13°C and high in the summer of 24°C.

Humidity: group with other plants and use a pebble tray with water in the bottom of it to raise humidity, especially in late spring and summer. In winter reduce temperatures and watering frequency. Fertilize with half strength Schultz orchid fertilizer.

2012 Perennial Plant of the Year

~ January 4, 2012

Brunnera Macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ has been named the Perennial Plant Association's 2012 Perennial Plant of the Year. It carries the common name Siberian bugloss. And I love it.

I have grown Jack Frost in my own garden for several years and it is one of the greatest garden performers out there. This outstanding perennial plant is known best for its clear, distinctly variegated foliage. The silver/white inside margin of the heart-shaped leaves look their very best on an overcast or rainy day. How many plants can you say that about?

Insect and disease resistant in the extreme! I love what ‘Jack Frost’ does in my woodland garden and I think that you will enjoy it in a shady spot in your garden too. Note the ‘forget-me-not’ type sky-blue flowers in early spring.

Light – Perfect for a woodland garden. ‘Jack Frost’ prefers shade but can handle a sunny location. Requires afternoon shade to prevent leaf scorch.

Soil - This plant performs well in all but the driest conditions.

Hardiness - USDA Zones 2 to 9

Brunnera “Jack Frost” is not difficult to find at retailers and performs well in half sun to full shade locations.

A Fundraiser for the Windsor Hockey Heritage Society

~December 28, 2012

Let’s save the Hockey Heritage Museum in Windsor Nova Scotia!

I love to garden, but when I get the winter off, I love hockey just as much as gardening.

The Windsor Hockey Heritage Society in partnership with the Town of Windsor, King’s Edgehill School, Windsor Home Hardware and Howard Dill Enterprises (Long Pond) are working together to create an exciting fundraiser for the Windsor Hockey Heritage Society.

The event will be called the Birthplace of Hockey, Long Pond Heritage Classic. The event will be the ultimate hockey experience for the true hockey fan. The day will include a private viewing of the hockey museum, the chance to follow the historic footsteps of those youngsters at Edgehill School in 1800, by playing in a game on Long Pond, an after game meal, and an evening of hockey with like minded individuals. The players will keep their own unique jerseys, custom made hockey stick, as well as receive a tax receipt for $250. Organizers are expecting 72 players at $500 each. I recommend that you sign up soon. I have 8 guys planning to fly out there from the Toronto area. It will be a hoot for anyone that loves hockey!!

This event will take place on February 11, 2012.

For more information; watch the video (http://youtu.be/-cRqqKrOS4o) and visit www.longpondclassic.com.

The Perfect Hostess Gift

~ December 21, 2011

I get a greater response from this idea as a hostess/house warming gift of all.

During this busy time of year it's very important to say 'thank you' to those who go out of their way to entertain or those who you simply want to acknowledge as being special!
Why not leave them with a gift which will bring colour and beauty to their home in the New Year.
The Mark's Choice Amaryllis Kit comes complete with a decorative ceramic planter. My amaryllis are guaranteed to bloom. The bulbs are 'super-sized' and 22% bigger than most of the amaryllis sold in Canada. This means bigger flowers and more of them. Available exclusively at participating Home Hardware stores across Canada. (item# 5029-303, red and # 5029-304, striped). Be sure to pick up an extra kit for yourself.

Amaryllis: What to do After Blooming

Once your Amaryllis has finished blooming it requires some attention. Cut the flower stalk back to about 2" in height. Allow the leaves to continue to grow and water when the soil feels dry. This will allow the leaves to produce energy which the bulb will store for future blooms.
In the spring plant your Amaryllis (and the pot) in your garden. Find a location with partial shade and water during periods of drought. Fertilize regularly with a high phosphate liquid plant fertilizer.
In late September bring the pot indoors and cut back the foliage. Dry the bulb for 2 weeks at 65 degrees F and then store for about 10 weeks in a cool, dry, dark place. At the end of this storage period you will need to repot your Amaryllis bulb in fresh potting mix and start the cycle again.

Whether your host chooses to re-bloom their amaryllis or not, they will enjoy it and think of you often.

Let It Snow

~ December 14, 2011

Looking for the best insulater in the business for plants – one that is free? I have it for you – Snow. It acts as an insulator and protects your garden from the cold and frost. It is important to remember that a heavy snowfall can also cause branches to break and damage delicate plants. A few simple steps will help protect your yard against snow damage.

* Shake excess snow from the branches of trees, shrubs and hedges. This will ensure that your plants keep their desired shape.
Wrap conifers with string to support branches. Once a branch has been stretched out of shape it will not return to its original form.

* Avoid walking on your lawn when it is snow-covered. This can damage the grass and leave marks on the lawn which become visible in the spring. Driving across the lawn or walking on it during the winter can also encourage fungal growth leading to disease problems.
Be careful when clearing the snow from driveways and walkways. If you pile snow against your trees, shrubs or hedges it can cause further damage. The weight of the snow leaning against your plants can break branches or bend them out of shape.

Clearing snow and ice from your driveway and walkways can be a lot of work. Many municipalities have by-laws which state snow must be cleared within 24 hours following a snowfall. Consider these suggestions the next time you are faced with the daunting task of snow removal around your home. Avoid shoveling heavy snow by clearing the snow early and often.

If you are home during a snow storm it is a good idea to begin shoveling when a light covering of snow is on the ground. This will help you avoid moving heavy, packed snow.Warm up before you start snow removal to help reduce muscle strain or injury.Invest in a great snow shovel which is designed for 'pushing' snow rather than 'lifting'. Pushing the snow puts less stress on your body. If you must lift heavy snow make sure you use your legs. Lifting with your legs will keep the stress off your back muscles. Lift small amounts and through straight forward. Do not throw the snow over your shoulder or sideways. Twisting motions will also stress your back muscles.

* Use Alaskan ice melter to clear ice and prevent ‘salt’ damage to your precious garden plants.
Salt can be a gardener's nightmare. It can cause winter injury and dieback. Salt spray can desiccate foliage and runoff can injure roots. Salt runoff can also be absorbed by the plant and cause further damage to the foliage. Burlap barriers provide some protection against salt spray damage. Alaskan® Ice Melter is safe for use near vegetation when used as directed. It contains an environmentally inert TrueBlue marker that marks where the ice melter has been applied. The blue colour marker protects against over-application and allows you to see where you have placed the product to avoid contact with your plants.

Winterize Garden Tools and Last Minute Garden Prep

~ December 7, 2011

You have a substantial investment in garden tools and equipment, therefore I recommend that you spend some time with them before putting them to bed for the winter.

I recommend taking the time for preventative maintenance. This will extend the life of tools and equipment and make them work more easily and efficiently.
Remove dirt from all tools using a wire brush or water. Oil all pivot points and springs. Sharpen the cutting edges of shovels, hoes, spades, loppers and pruners. Replace or repair any broken or bent parts. As a final step, treat all bare metal parts and cutting edges with KL73 to prevent rust. This is a long lasting rust inhibitor which lubricates, penetrates and displaces moisture. KL73 is available exclusively at Home Hardware.

Store all tools indoors in a dry location. If you haven't checked out the full line of Mark's Choice cuttings tools, this is the perfect time. It is time to throw away or recycle your old broken tools and invest in the latest Canadian-made cutting tools. Available exclusively at Home Hardware, I chose these cutting tools for the Mark's Choice product line because of their exceptional quality and durability.

Before storing hoses away for the winter, drain all the water from them and store in a dry location. This significantly reduces the chance of hoses springing a leak. If your garden hoses are cracked and/or leaking, replace them with the Mark's Choice non-kinking, continuous flow hose. It is designed and made in Canada and features anti-kink technology. The fittings are the very best quality brass and I am proud to have this hose in the Mark's Choice line of gardening accessories available exclusively at Home Hardware.

While we are talking about ‘winterizing’ let us not forget to prepare evergreens for the winter ahead.
Sunny and windy winter days can dry out the needles of evergreens. Snow and ice can also accumulate on branches causing them to break. Use a double layer of burlap to protect evergreens during the winter. You can either loosely wrap the fabric around the plant, or build a screen. When you wrap evergreens with burlap, be sure to leave the top and bottom open about 1 foot to allow for air circulation. Another option, used for recently transplanted evergreens, is to insert 4 stakes in the ground around the plant and wrap the burlap around the stakes. Lightly fill the space between the burlap and the foliage with dry leaves. Bind upright evergreens, like cedars and junipers, with strong cord or Vexar Mesh to prevent the branches from being pulled out of shape by snow and ice.
Broad-leaved evergreens, such as rhododendrons and hollies, can suffer from desiccation and sun-scald during the winter. They should be shielded from the wind and partially shaded with burlap screens as soon as evening temperatures have fallen below freezing for a couple of weeks and sprayed with Wilt-Pruf, an anti-desiccant. Young evergreens should have the ground around them soaked thoroughly with water before the first big frost. This will help prevent desiccation or drying out.

To prevent rodent or deer damage apply Bobbex. In my experience it is the best repellent on the market. Note that it is the taste and smell of the stuff that keeps rabbits, mice and deer away. No harm to the animal. Go to http://www.bobbex.ca/ for more info.

Spring-Flowering Bulbs in Containers

~ November 30, 2011

It never fails. Every year at this time I receive an email from a gardener who has forgotten to plant their tulip bulbs. My advice to them: Why not create a containerized display to impress the neighbours next spring?

This recipe also works with the bulbs you buy at the ‘end of season’ clearance sales.
Choose a large decorative planter with good drainage. Start with a layer of gravel on the base of the pot. This will keep the drainage holes clear of debris. Use a container soil mix which has peat, vermiculite and compost (Mark’s Choice Container Mix is excellent).

In order to maintain a succession of flowers, several types of bulbs can be planted in the same pot, providing it is deep enough. Be sure to plant the largest flowering bulbs on the bottom, smallest on top.

To make this simple, I created a variety of spring bulb collections that work well when creating a great show of several bulb varieties in one container. Look for the Mark’s Choice bulb collections at Home Hardware.

Add a layer of container mix, and place the biggest bulbs on this, such as Narcissi. Then add a further layer of container mix to about 2.5 inches and place the next layer, in this case, Tulips. Add a further layer of container mix and plant your final bulbs, such as crocus, and top the container off, finishing the soil an inch below the top of the pot to allow for watering. The result will be a beautiful display of colour which flowers in successive stages.

Bulbs in containers do not usually survive harsh winter temperatures. Make sure the container is free-draining and bury the whole thing in the garden for the winter. Another option is to keep the container in an unheated garage against the wall shared with the home. A cold cellar is the ideal place to over winter the container.
Remove it from cold storage or from the garden in spring when frost is out of the ground and place in the desired location.

Colourful Poinsettias

~November 23, 2011

If there is one thing that gets me into the Christmas spirit, it is the arrival of poinsettias at Garden centres. Right now they are full of ‘painted’ Poinsettias in all colours of the rainbow. Along with the traditional varieties, these holiday favourites make wonderful gifts for your family and friends.

Taking Care of your Poinsettia
With proper care your poinsettia will last through the holiday season and well into the New Year.
Place in a room where there is sufficient light and warmth, not where the sun will shine directly on the plant.
Avoid hot or cold drafts or excess heat from appliances, baseboard heaters or heat ducts.
Place the plant high enough to be away from traffic and unmonitored children and animals.
Set the plant in or on a waterproof container to protect your furnishings.
Water the plant thoroughly when the soil is dry to the touch. Remember to discard excess water for them saucer.
To prolong the bright colour of the bracts, temperatures should not exceed 72F during the day or 60F at night.

How to Re-flower a Poinsettia
It is not easy to maintain a healthy Poinsettia and have it flower again next year for the holidays. However, if you follow these directions carefully it is possible.
· December: Plant is in full bloom. Water as needed.
· February: Colour will fade. Keep Poinsettia near a sunny window and fertilize when new growth appears. Cut back to about 8”.
· June 1: Repot if necessary and fertilize. Continue to water when dry to the touch. Move outside it temperatures do not fall below 50F. Place in shade.
· Late August: Move plant inside. Cut stems back leaving 3 to 4 leaves per shoot. Place plant in a sunny window. Water and fertilize as needed.
· September 20 – December 1: Keep in light only from 8am to 5pm. Plant must be kept in complete darkness from 5pm to 8am.

While many Poinsettias will join the compost bin soon after the holiday season it is possible to keep these plants through the entire year.